Al Balad Eats: Travel enthusiast Turki Shoaib shares his top recommendations

Like everything else in Jeddah, Al Balad’s food scene is reflective of the amalgamation and influx of cultures over the centuries.

For millennia, the Arabs of the peninsula have traded with places as far-flung as India and China, and as close as the Levant and Africa, explains Turki Shoaib, a history aficionado, avid traveller, photographer, and brand consultant.  

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“Perhaps nowhere in Saudi is the cuisine more diverse than in the western region of Hijaz,” he says. While the area’s diet was influenced by the proximity to the mountainous region and a wider range of fruits and vegetables they provided, it wasn’t until the various prosperous Islamic periods that local cuisine developed in a way that was unprecedented, Shoaib further explains.  

“As people from every part of the Muslim world made the pilgrimage to Makkah and Madinah over the centuries, they bought with them their culture and food,” he says. “Many stayed and have settled here. And over the generations, have left a deep impact on the customs of the local population. Thereby, in essence, enriching Hijazi cuisine.” 

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He goes on to cite examples of how the local cuisine has adopted dishes from Egypt, Syria, Turkey, India, Indonesia, and central Asia – ful medames, murtabak, bukhari rice, or manti. 

While Shoaib has explored different regions of Saudi over the last 20 years, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Al Balad holds a special place in his heart. Each time he goes back, time seems to stand still and the historic neighbourhood still manages to retain its charm, he explains. In fact, the allure runs so deep that Shoaib has developed an extensive guide for things to see and do in Al Balad. 

As the Kingdom opened to tourism, more and more visitors were looking for attractions that were “off the beaten path.” Going by the Instagram handle @arabiantrails, it was around this time that Shoaib started developing free guidebooks – including road trip guides – that include itineraries, facts, anecdotes, advice, and most importantly, a visual map of many historic sites in Saudi. Here are his recommendations on where to grab a bite in Al Balad. 

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Breakfast of Champions

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While The Hijaz House on Al Alawi Market Street, near Bait Nassif, is a good option for a hearty, sit-down breakfast of kibdeh (meat liver) and bread, Shoaib’s top recommendation is – true to his style – a small joint that caters to the working people of the old town.  

“The best place to grab a bite is Bab Makkah,” he explains. “That’s where the caravans would historically get their provision, before heading to Makkah.” For the best ful and tamees bread, he recommends Almawahad near Bab Makkah.  

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“While the food there is good, the atmosphere is amazing because you will be rubbing shoulders or sharing a table with shopkeepers and workers who are all incredibly friendly.” He recommends the ful, Afghani bread, masoub (a porridge of wheat bread, bananas, and honey), and Adani tea.  

However, if you’re in the mood for some grab-and-go breakfast, he recommends any of the cafeterias on Al Layyat Lane, the right lane after Bait Nassif. As you head out of Al Alawi Market, you will find the unassuming hole-in-the-wall, Buffet Fataer Al Jazirah (formerly Makkah Cafeteria), and Madinah Cafeteria, along with a few others. “Grab an egg and vegetable wrap and tea and head back to Bait Naseef Square, and watch the world go by as you enjoy your breakfast,” he says. 

Locations:

The Hijaz House
Almawahad
Buffet Fataer Al Jazirah 
Madinah Cafeteria  

Catch of the Day

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One cannot be in Jeddah, and not sample some of the freshest seafood that the city has to offer. Take advantage of Al Balad’s former days of glory as a seaport and opt for lunch or dinner at a traditional fish restaurant. You cannot go wrong with Al Basali Restaurant in Bab Makkah or Baeshen Fish in the Hawateen Alley at the end of Al Nada Market.  

Established by a local fisherman’s family, the 75-year-old Al Basali Restaurant is an institution in itself – and you will find the walls of the small, intimate space lined with photographs of dignitaries and guests who have frequented the restaurant over the years. While waiting for your reservation, be sure to sample some baked goodies – tiny pieces of piping-hot bread or soft, pillowy lugaimat – at the takeaway counter. But be sure not to fill yourself up, as a feast awaits when you sit down.  

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Once seated, choose from a selection of local fish. Shoaib recommends najil (red grouper), hareed (colourful parrotfish), and regular or jumbo-sized prawns. “Najil and prawns are best when fried and hareed is best when grilled,” he says. The best accompaniment to your seafood is dakous or tamarind sauce and tahini, the sharp, Arab variant of arugula leaves, and a plate of sayadiyah rice.   

For a traditional, Arabic-style sit-down experience near the north gate, Ba'eshen Fish is your spot.  

@baeshenfishrestaurant.sa @albasli.sa

Locations:

Al Basali Restaurant 
Ba'eshen Fish 

A Sweet Ending

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After a hearty meal at Baeshen, be sure to pop into Bait Al Marsi, right next door in Hawateen Alley – Shoaib recommends their marsi, a Yemeni porridge of grilled white bread, cream, and bananas, similar to masoub. 

Another favourite among locals is the rooftop café of Layali Tarikhiya (Historical Nights). Sip on some gahwa as the sun sets over Al Balad and watch as the area comes alive with activity. For a Hijazi specialty, head to Sobia Bar, just a short walk away north from Al Alawi Market Street. Particularly popular during Ramadan, sobia is a cooling drink made of barley or oats, and sweetened with fruit flavouring, cinnamon, and sugar. A more recent addition to Al Balad, the interiors of Sobia Bar feature paintings by local artists and make for a perfect Instagrammable spot. 

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Before heading out of Al Balad, Shoaib likes to pass by its historic bakeries to pick up some bread or baked goodies for home. His favourites are Forn Al Sheikh, located on the intersection of Al Dahab and Al Basha Street. A 104-year-old bakery, Forn Al Sheikh is currently run by the second- and third-generation Shoukrys, relatives of Sheikh Youssef Shoukry, the head baker whose name and fame spread beyond Jeddah to Egypt and Bahrain. Their traditional shabura wheat bread or the sweet, round shabura bread are a few local favourites.  

Shoaib also recommends the historic Al Saidi Bakery, close to Shafie Mosque, for its sweet and savoury rusks. 

@fornalsheikh @sobia.bar

Locations:

Bait Al Marsi
Layali Tarikhiya Café 
Sobia Bar 
Forn Al Sheikh 
Al Saidi Bakery (Note: Currently closed for renovations)

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@arabiantrails