"I'm living my dream job. It's my life."
I’ve interviewed my fair share of internationally rated chefs, yet sitting Cyril Lignac feels like chatting with a friend.
Most days, you’ll find him at the centre of a whirlwind: managing his sprawling brand, in the kitchen behind 'the pass' or perhaps planning his next new opening. This day, however, the pace is different. We’re in Dubai, sharing an early afternoon dessert and a coffee in his restaurant, Bar des Prés. On the 51st floor of ICD Brookfield, overlooking the city, for a rare moment the man who is usually everywhere at once is sitting right here.
Cyril Lignac has a rare gift: he can command a kitchen of forty disciplined chefs with a single glance and, minutes later, crease his eyes in laughter over a radio broadcast to millions of French households. He is the chef who taught a nation to cook during lockdown and the entrepreneur who turned a television debut in 2005 into a multi-continental legacy. Warm. Familiar. Unpretentious. And full of personality. If his food and philosophy hadn’t already won you over, meeting Cyril will — he possesses the rare type of charisma that turned even our introduction into a genuine conversion.
As he marks over 20 years in the spotlight — spanning Michelin stars, 40 cookbooks, and fresh off his latest venture in Saint Barth's — I caught up with the man who (usually) refuses to stay still.
Meet the Chef: Cyril Lignac
What is the most crucial piece of non-technical advice you would give to an aspiring young chef looking to build a brand?
Find your passion. Find your passion in food and flavour. For me, when I was young, I was a disaster in school. I loved school, but it didn't love me. But, everyone finds their way.
Your philosophy for Bar des Prés centres on the "Parisian DNA meets Japanese precision." How do you ensure that the delicate, raw nature of Japanese cuisine is respected without losing the soul of French cooking?
I worked in Japan before, and I improved my knowledge of authentic flavours and style. I learned that the Japanese are very disciplined, when it comes to seasoning and even plating. I love Japanese culture and spent time learning, and I am French, of course, so it felt natural to me to fuze the two... I liked the idea of serving Japanese food, in a tapas style.
At the end of this year, I will open the Patisserie in Tokyo, in Isetan Shinjuku.
Is there a specific dish that you feel serves as the "signature" for Bar des Prés or more specifically in Dubai, and why does it resonate so well with the palate?
You know, the crab galette is my signature everywhere. I've seen other restaurants try to copy, I've even tasted it. It looks similar, but the taste and flavour is not there. Its not the same as mine.
How does the "energy" of a city like Dubai influence the way you develop, present or season a dish?
I would love for the people of Dubai to consider the restaurant home. This is our version of home, its elevated, its elegant. I've seen a lot of top business leaders, many of whom are French, from the fashion industry and even hospitality come here, because its home, a taste of home.
Bar des Prés now has locations in Paris, London, Dubai and most recently St Barth in the Caribbean. Expanding a brand globally often risks diluting its essence. How do you maintain that personal, hands-on connection to your kitchens when they are thousands of miles apart?
Yes, international food and flavours are now found everywhere, because people are travelling more. You can taste authentic international food, without travelling now. But again, I think it comes down to consistency - I want to ensure that every customer visiting my restaurants around the world will know the level of food to expect, and the flavours are the same in France, Dubai and London.
My chefs travel every month. One from Paris, one month. One from London, another. They share knowledge, and they maintain standards. For example, when we opened in St Barth during Thanksgiving time, all of my top team came to St Barth. When I left, my master sushi chef from Paris stayed. In February, my French chef will come, and we change every time to make sure there is help and knowledge always.
For me, consistency is key - in my kitchens we are always tasting, always learning. My restaurants are like my kids, my baby. I have to take care of my restaurant. and brand. I am proud of what I have built. Its really important to never lose your passion about food and consistency.
If you could only travel to one city or region in the world purely for the food (ignoring all sightseeing), where would return to over and over again, and is there a single, specific dish you would seek out?
Japan. Without a doubt. I can't pinpoint one specific dish, I enjoy it all! Sushi, soba, tempura. Actually, now that I think about it, I think my favourite dish is shabu-shabu. If you come with me to Japan, this is what I would show you. Really thin, high quality pieces of meat and vegetables, you dip it in the flavoured boil, and it cooks - delicious. I'm craving it now, I like finding small shops.
And then also black sesame ice cream with crispy wafer, goma monaka, in Japan is amazing. This desert is so good.
Hotel breakfasts are something of a shared delight for travellers around the world, what is your go to order?
I always order two fried eggs, sunny side up. And after, I order chia with coconut, fresh fruit on the top. I also order a cappuccino, which is a bit Italian of me!
Is there a dish or flavour that transports you instantly to a happy moment in your childhood or during your early years that has become your go-to comfort food?
Yes, for me, its the côte de boeuf. Because I was born in the countryside, this piece of beef wasn't as expensive as it is now. It now reminds me of my family, and growing up in Aveyron.
Quick Fire Questions
· Your favourite "guilty pleasure" snack?
Brioche with Nutella.
· The best city in the world for a 24-hour food crawl?
My answer is Italy, without hesitation. Because I love crudo, pasta, tiramisu. Italian is close to the French culture, and I love it because the food is amazing, and its easy food. Every time its like comfort food.
· The most underrated ingredient in cooking?
Olive oil. The best olive oil. Olive oil with salt, pepper, its enough flavour for almost everything, like crudo or fresh fish fillet. And even chocolate mousse! A little olive oil on top of rich chocolate mousse, add some flaky salt. Wow, its amazing.
· The best smell in a kitchen?
All of the smells. Haha. But when chocolate is melting, this smell is the best.
· The first restaurant that blew your mind?
When I was in school, I spotted in a magazine that a female chef nearby in Aveyron had been awarded a Michelin star. My grandmother had given me some money. And I went with my friend, and spent a lot of money to enjoy the tasting menu. And it sparked something in me. The next day, I messaged her and asked her if I could train under her and work in her kitchen as an apprentice. That was the start of everything for me.
· One thing you always have in your fridge?
One thing? Thats hard. Always eggs, butter, yoghurt... Oh, and cheese. French cheese, Reblochon, Comté, sometimes Camembert.
· Your next vacation destination?
Maybe the Maldives. I mean its three hours from Dubai, and I've never been.
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