Lunch with Alain: Our experience dining at Ducasse in AlUla

The light in AlUla has a way of softening everything it touches.

It filters through the tall palm trees, casting shifting patterns on the ground, dappling the simple wooden table where I find myself seated next to Chef Alain Ducasse for lunch. There’s no ceremony about it, just the cool winter breeze drifting through the neatly lined palm trees, the outline of the historic Ikmah Mountain in the distance, and the steady presence of one of the world’s most celebrated chefs, completely at ease in this unlikely setting.

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Ducasse AlUla

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“This,” says Ducasse, gesturing to the oasis that surrounds us, “is harmony.”

This restaurant marks Ducasse’s first-ever pop-up concept. It opened in 2023 as a seasonal venture, nestled within a private palm tree farm in AlUla. After a successful debut, it returned in 2024, running from early December to the end of February, with plans to continue for upcoming seasons.

Designed with a deep respect for the natural landscape, the space allows AlUla’s beauty to take centre stage.

The pop-up dining experience is fully outdoors, and is inspired by local customs and the historic lifestyle rooted in open-air living. Wicker chairs painted green blend seamlessly with the palms, and the structure – simple constructions of brick and wood – is reminiscent of the architecture of AlUla’s old town. The tables, dressed in simple white linen and adorned with whole local citrus, reflect the region’s tradition of sharing, inviting a sense of community with every meal.

“The real luxury,” says Ducasse, “is to be in a place that blends harmony in nature.”

This ethos isn’t just about the space but threads through every part of the experience, from the food to the plates it’s served on. The ceramics are handcrafted, the silverware modern yet understated, a deliberate mix curated by Ducasse himself. "Refining modern," he calls it, not as a slogan but as a guiding principle.

Ducasse in AlUla

Ducasse’s connection to nature runs deep. He grew up in the southwest of France near the Basque country, on a farm surrounded by rolling fields and fresh produce. It was there, watching his grandmother cook, that he learned to respect ingredients, valuing their integrity and presenting them in their purest form. This philosophy is reflected in every dish here in AlUla, where the landscape and its bounty are not just backdrops but central characters in the dining experience.

He first visited AlUla two years ago, drawn not just by its dramatic landscape but by something quieter – its produce. He was struck by the quality of the local fruits and vegetables, the abundance of fresh herbs, and the instinctive sustainability practices embraced by local farms. Almost everything on the menu is sourced from nearby farms, following an 'oasis-to-table' approach.

“It’s about preserving the local DNA of a place,” he says. It’s a philosophy that’s shaped his career, with 30 restaurants across 9 countries, each one rooted in its own local culture while reflecting his global culinary vision.

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The first dish arrives, a plate of vibrant local vegetables – radishes, carrots, cucumbers – arranged simply, unapologetically fresh. This plate is a staple at any Ducasse restaurant, a reflection of his belief in the beauty of simplicity.

I sip on a Kumquat Sparkle, a mocktail that’s fresh and bright – honey syrup, lime juice, sparkling water, and mint. It’s refreshing without trying too hard, like the breeze that drifts through the palm fronds overhead.

Then comes an herb-filled omelet, inspired by the trouchia from the south of France but reimagined with AlUla’s local greens. It’s delicate yet earthy, the herbs giving it a vibrancy that feels rooted in both places at once – Provence and AlUla. Ducasse seems pleased with how naturally the flavours connect across borders.

Next, a dish that feels both familiar and surprising: his version of hummus. It arrives as a silky chickpea purée, brightened with coriander and lime. The texture is velvety, the flavours crisp and layered – refreshingly different from the traditional, yet honouring its essence.

The main course surprises me: Confit Camel à la Rossini. Traditionally made with filet mignon, here it’s reimagined with tender baby camel, rich and perfectly cooked. “It works, doesn’t it?” Ducasse asks, watching for my reaction.

It does. Somehow, it’s both bold and subtle, the camel’s distinct flavour tempered by the technique, the sauce tying it all together without overpowering the meat.

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For dessert, something unexpected: Camel Milk Ice Cream with Honey.

Ducasse smiles slightly as it’s served. “I love camel milk,” he admits, “I’ve been experimenting with it.” The ice cream is creamy and slightly tangy, with just enough sweetness from the honey to round it out. It’s not trying to be exotic; it just is what it is—clean, simple, true to the ingredient.

Throughout the meal, our conversation drifts between food and philosophy.

As our lunch comes to an end, Chef Ducasse offers me one of his very own handcrafted chocolates to accompany my espresso. “Lunch here is comfortable,” he says at one point, glancing around at the soft light slipping through the palms. “But dinner… dinner here is magic.”

“The harmony is what sparks happiness,” he reflects. “The setting, the design, the food—they’re all tangible. But together, they create something intangible. And that’s what people will remember.”

Ducasse in AlUla is a seasonal pop-up restaurant that operates from the beginning of December until the end of February.

Lunch: Friday-Sunday from 1 - 4pm
Dinner: Thursday-Monday from 8pm – 1am
Afternoon Tea: Friday-Sunday from 4pm - 6pm
Note: Ducasse in AlUla is closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays

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