Step into Abou Faisal's time capsule emporium in Souq Al Zal

Just a few steps from Riyadh’s historic Masmak Palace is the city’s renowned traditional market – Souq Al Zal, a landmark that intersects with many tales and stories narrating the heritage of the Kingdom and its capital.

Wandering through the souq is an experience in itself, its streets filled with a world of emotions that reach a crescendo once you’re at Shawati Al Hejaz Electrical Appliances Store, known to locals as Abou Faisal – named after its owner. 

As soon as you face the shop, you’ll be amazed by its disarray – so chaotic is the space that it almost looks like an abstract painting. Order is entirely absent and randomness can be found in every nook and cranny. Items are stacked, hung, and strewn around, making entry into Abou Faisal a bit of a challenge; only one person at a time can walk through what space is left to manoeuvre.  

Abou Faisal showcases the past in the form of items that may not hold any value for some but mean everything to others. In the same way nostalgia might take you back to your grandfather's home thirty years ago, you can get a glimpse of that past at Abou Faisal. From old rotary dial phones to ancient swords, pistols, and even a vintage gas mask, this store is a place of discovery where you might find everything (there’s even an old Saudi license plate belonging to Aramco and another Dammam plate) or nothing. 

The owner Abou Faisal tells the story behind his shop: “I founded it more than 20 years ago. This store was originally specialised in electrical tools, then I turned it into an antiques shop, more or less.” Indeed, conflicting thoughts will cross your mind when you attempt to categorize Abou Faisal's shop, as it lacks a clear identity and a single link unifying the nature of items on display. 

Amidst all the chaos, there are many would-be treasures, a few that look timeworn, others that feel timeless. When asked about them, however, Abou Faisal can’t really pinpoint the oldest piece he has, and does not have much details about the objects he sells, from their age to their history. As we continue to chat, I pick up an old pistol, or what was known in its time as a Tabanjah, resting just above a collection of ancient swords whose last time in their scabbards is uncertain. Although some items have price tags, most are unpriced. When asked about average prices or the pricing mechanism, Abou Faisal explains that some items don’t have a clear price, and pricing is often based on the buyer's desire for the piece and some negotiation between them.  

Abou Faisal considers a visit to his store a source of happiness for visitors. For those who remember a time when items in his store were part of everyday life, a visit to Abou Faisal conjures up fond memories – perhaps the main reason many visitors continue to drop by the store to explore. 

“Both locals and foreign tourists visit Souq Al Zal and drop by my shop, drawn by the theme. They enjoy seeing the goods on display and spending a long time examining the space, to a point where they forget themselves,” he says. Such is the charm and organic appeal of this iconic store and its owner.   

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Shawati Al-Hejaz Electrical Appliances  
Shop No. 56, Souq Al Zal, Riyadh