Following almost three years working at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris, 29-year-old Manar Al Mahmood wanted to go even deeper into politics. Where else to head than Washington DC?
“I will never get used to casually passing by the US Capitol on my strolls,” the international relations graduate says. “Living here, I am fully immersed in my field. Within my first month, I got to shake hands with a former US Vice-President on campus (Mike Pence), share a table with a prominent international broadcaster at a conference (Mehdi Hasan), and meet political analysts I have been reading for years! So, Washington is a city where you can be in rooms with people you admire and people you fundamentally disagree with, sometimes at the same time.”
It’s no wonder Al Mahmood felt compelled to continue her studies here, researching a thesis project on Saudi soft power. Now based in the very heart of downtown Washington DC, “a few blocks away from the White House”, she makes the most of her proximity to policy centres and research institutes – but also imposing key landmarks. “Whenever I need to clear my head, I simply put my sneakers on and walk down to the National Mall up to the Lincoln Memorial,” she says. “Also, as an art lover, I admire the Smithsonian museums that are scattered around the area and free to visit. A favourite is the National Portrait Gallery, home to presidential portraits and a beautiful glass-ceiling courtyard that functions as a perfect work-from-home space.”
Indeed, aside from the diplomatic prowess of the city, its art, history, and culture have also captivated Al Mahmood. “Every corner tells a story,” she says. “The architecture here is the perfect blend between Europe and America. I also absolutely love how you can truly experience all seasons of the year: beautiful summers, colourful falls, snowy winters, and, of course, cherry blossoms in spring.” After growing up in the calm, coastal city of Al Khobar in the Eastern Province, Al Mahmood has lived between Canada, the United States, France, and Saudi Arabia during her 20s. “Though,” she muses, “I can see myself calling Washington DC home for a while longer. I feel in my element here.” Here she shares her guide to the city.
Top Foodie Finds
“Love, Makoto is a foodie’s dream, a culinary love letter,” Al Mahmood says. “It’s four Japanese restaurants in one; four concepts, one chef, Makoto Okuwa.” Each concept is a unique dining experience, with Al Mahmood’s favourite named Dear Sushi. “The menu is literally written as a love letter, hence Dear Sushi. The adorable heart-shaped soy sauce plates add a sweet Instagrammable touch. And the matcha soft serve at Love on the Run, the fourth concept, is an absolute must-try.”
La Bonne Vache, meanwhile, is an intimate bistro in the attractive Georgetown district. “It’s ironic,” Al Mahmood laughs. “I’m in America but my favourite burger spot is French. It makes me quite nostalgic because it accurately captures the Parisian ambience, from the wooden chairs to the cramped space, to the tasty fries – it really takes me back.” Try the Goujon de Morue (crispy cod burger) and Champignons de Paris et Lentilles du Puy (mushroom and lentil veggie burger).
“Fun fact,” reveals Al Mahmood. “They give out a cute postcard with the bill as a souvenir.”
Explore the Cafe Culture
“I am always on the lookout for nice cafes to write in and enjoy good coffee,” she says. Dua DC Coffee in her neighbourhood hits the brief: an Indonesian woman-owned specialty coffee shop (whose beans come directly from farmers in Indonesia), it ensures an ecologically sustainable production process, too. “Their signature lattes are heavenly,” exclaims Al Mahmood. “My go-to is the Aren latte, with an in-house-made Javanese organic coconut palm sugar syrup.”
Alternatively, she describes La Betty as “DC’s best-kept secret – a cosy cafe by day and a vinyl listening bar by night, known for amazing brioche doughnuts (my personal favourite is butter toffee)”. But it’s the interior, filled with beautiful rugs, that really seals the deal. “They make it feel like a home,” she explains. “And everyone that works there is equally warm. It’s the ideal place for reading a book while enjoying a sweet treat.”
Best Boutiques & Bargains
Georgetown’s streets are lined with covetable international brands but it’s the local stores and Sunday flea market that make it special. “Alas Eius is one of my favourite boutiques, tucked away from the busy M Street in an alley,” explains Al Mahmood. It stocks minimal, unique items. “Over the years, I have become more of a mindful consumer, making conscious choices that are not detached from the production process. This is why I love boutiques like Alas Eius. They offer effortlessly chic and quality, durable products. I got a button-down top with an elegant and flattering side tie that I absolutely love.”
For secondhand, Vintage Vintage Vintage is a thrift store in Union Market District (“another great shopping area”) with Washington’s biggest collection of carefully selected, preloved items. “It includes 18 different curators, each with their own distinctive vibe,” she says. “Go for many eccentric and vintage designer finds.”
Washington also has a big literary community and many local bookstores. “But my favourite has to be Capitol Hill Books,” Al Mahmood decides about the space that was partly converted from a home. “The shop is filled with used books from floor to ceiling – its narrowness and chaos are part of the charm.” Look out for rare and first edition books.
“I bought my friend a cute palm tree-shaped incense holder as a reminder of Saudi Arabia.” It’s from Salt & Sundry, a lifestyle store Al Mahmood describes as “perfect for all sorts of unique pieces, from coffee table books and kitchenware to candles and perfumes”. Shop Made in DC, on the other hand, “is not your typical souvenir shop”, carrying products from various DC local creatives. “I love the DC tote bags, one-off jewellery, and adorable stationery,” she shares. “I always find the prettiest journals and enamel pins here for friends.”
For a Taste of Home
This has to be “the only Saudi-owned cafe, Shotted”, Al Mahmood says. “It serves Saudi coffee, karak chai, and date-flavoured desserts that taste like home.” It might be based in Virginia, but Shotted always has pop-ups at the embassy events she attends. “The aroma of cardamom-filled Saudi coffee comforts my homesickness.”
For a Workout
“Walking is my favourite form of exercise and Washington DC is extremely walkable, which, as a former Parisian, I deeply appreciate,” explains Al Mahmood. Tidal Basin is perhaps the most picturesque park – particularly when the cherry blossom is blooming. “It’s a serene waterfront loop ideal for long walks among Washington’s most iconic views,” she shares. “It’s my favourite spot for capturing the Washington Monument through the seasons. The pond has paddle boats to enjoy a ride surrounded by nature and landmarks such as the Thomas Jefferson Memorial (one of my favourites).”
For strength training, try reformer Pilates at Method Room, a small local studio with “great instructors and a welcoming atmosphere”.
Where to Stay
For a staycation, Al Mahmood would pick Waldorf Astoria Washington DC for its mix of history and modern luxury. “The building dates back to 1899, serving as the main US Post Office and was reimagined in 2016 as a hotel,” explains Al Mahmood. As well as being positioned right by the Washington Monument, it also manages to “offer a rare calm”. Watch out for the hotel’s grand hall, Peacock Alley. “It’s a light-filled gorgeous space that offers a beautiful afternoon tea experience.”
Looking to reset? Al Mahmood also recommends the Waldorf Astoria Washington DC spa whenever you’re in need of a spot of self-care, specifically recommending a luxury massage treatment. “The sanctuary room has a deeply relaxing serenity fountain and private cocoons in which to finish off a therapeutic day.”
Cobblestone Charm & Legacy Landmarks
Besides the classic attractions, Al Mahmood loves taking visitors just south of DC, to Old Town Alexandria, said to be one of the country’s most well-preserved areas. “The cobblestone streets and 18th-century buildings make it feel like time travel,” she says.
“Along King Street, you will find adorable boutiques and coffee shops, as well as antique shops filled with colonial-era artefacts and founding fathers’ memorabilia.” On Saturdays, she recommends the charming Old Town Farmers’ Market, founded in 1753 and continuously operating since then. “It’s the perfect day trip destination, especially in the fall when the foliage is at its peak,” she says. “Something about the orange leaves on cobblestones makes it so dreamy.”
Only in Washington DC
Fortunately for Al Mahmood, a city-wide tradition known as Art All Night took place soon after her arrival. Inspired by the French Nuit Blanche, it’s an annual night when art of all forms is shown throughout “public and private spaces, neighbourhoods, galleries, businesses, and even embassies”. “It was a great way to explore the city, from installation to installation, letting the night unfold spontaneously following the sound of music and collective joy.”
However, her most unique experience so far remains visiting the 1800-founded Library of Congress, the largest library in the world, as well as a research institution for lawmakers, exhibition space, and attraction in itself. “When I moved here, I got myself a library card that allows me to use the Main Reading Room closed off to tourists,” she shares. “I go there to write, but to be frank, it can be counterproductive as I get distracted admiring the place. The grand halls, marble staircases, and gorgeous art depicting the value of knowledge make the Library of Congress such an unparalleled experience.”
Photos by Mariah Miranda (unless otherwise noted)
