The first thing that anyone talks about when it comes to life in the Arabian Gulf is the weather – particularly the heat. Not least in summer, when daily temperatures hover around 40°C and in Riyadh they can climb towards 50°C. Even those craving some vitamin D need a break in air-conditioned spaces.
But life goes on in Riyadh during July and August, even if locals escape to moderate climes like Aseer at the weekend. Those with little experience of the Gulf aren’t aware that from traditional barjeel wind towers and mashrabiyas to modern air conditioning, these cities are built for the heat. Summer in Riyadh is not just survivable, it can be enjoyable too.
Planning, as always, is key: spend the hotter hours of the day indoors, either at a museum, mall or cinema (or sleeping in an air-conditioned hotel room), and then hit the streets at night.
1. Visit the National Museum of Saudi Arabia
Explore the exhibits at the sprawling National Museum, open daily from 9am to 7pm (Thursday 9am to 10pm and Friday from 2pm to 10pm, closed on Sunday) and admission is free (a perfect option for a budget experience).
This vast museum includes eight permanent galleries and temporary exhibits from earliest man up to the present day. It begins with galleries on prehistoric and ancient settlements in the land that would become Saudi Arabia, through the birth of the Prophet Mohammed and Islam, up to the foundation of the Saudi state and modern Saudi history.
There is also a gallery dedicated to the Hajj and the two mosques at Makkah and Madinah. Situated in Al Murabba, in central Riyadh, the museum is part of the King Abdulaziz Historical Centre – a sprawling development that includes a public park, a mosque and an auditorium.
2. Walk the Sky Bridge at the Kingdom Centre
On the 99th floor of the 300m-tall Kingdom Centre Tower, the 65m-long Sky Bridge, which weighs more than 300 tons, provides epic views of the city through secure glass panels. Take the ultra-fast elevator straight to the 99th floor to start your adventure.
It isn’t cheap, with adult tickets (anyone over 10 years old) running at SAR 95 per person, but it’s an incredible experience for the whole family. Once you’ve taken in the view, head down to the Kingdom Centre mall downstairs or visit the King Abdullah Mosque, the highest in the country.
The second super-tall building in Riyadh, Al Faisaliah Centre, also has a skybridge of sorts, above the orb that crowns the building. Saudi Arabia’s first skyscraper which, at the time of construction, was taller than any building in Europe, Al Faisaliah contains a gallery and viewing platform (The Globe Experience) that is open every day until 11pm.
Like the Kingdom Tower, the Al Faisaliah Centre has a mall downstairs, although travellers particularly rave about The Globe, a restaurant contained inside the golden sphere itself.
3. Hit the mall (and the movies)
Perhaps you’ve noticed a theme emerging – anywhere in the Gulf during the summer, malls are your friend. Not least because since 2018, many of them now include cinemas; gloriously cold, dark cinemas featuring loud, blockbuster action, cool drinks and snacks.
Cinema companies have made up for lost time. Some new developments offer IMAX screens and 4D interactive seats that allow you to follow the action. Others, like Vox Renaissance Theatre Experience at Via Riyadh, give you the option of actual beds to climb into. There are even Vox outlets particularly geared towards young children. At rival Empire Cinema, cinemas for kids also include play areas: an inspired innovation as any parent will know.
Bear in mind that the air conditioning is so extreme in cinemas in the Kingdom that many of them provide blankets.
4. Take an evening desert safari
It is still going to be hot in the evening in the desert, but a safari by jeep means you are inside an air-conditioned vehicle for most of it. Most tours involve an element of ‘dune-bashing’, during which your driver ploughs their 4x4 up and down the dunes. You may find it exciting, or – like this writer – find that it just makes you want to throw up.
Most evening tours take place between 4pm and 6pm, while the sun is dipping in the sky but before it disappears altogether.
Once the sun goes down, visitors are offered dinner in a traditional Saudi tent known as an ‘Arish’, followed by music and dance. Outside the walls of the tent, millions of stars glitter in the totally clear desert night sky as they always have and probably always will.
5. Go trampolining at Riyadh Park Mall
Magic Planet’s indoor trampoline park at Riyadh Park Mall offers all-day passes for 80 SAR per child. It also includes an indoor funfair with at least one rollercoaster and an arcade. The whole development stretches to 10,000 square metres and includes activities for both young children and teenagers. It is also home to a four-screen cinema. The complex is open until 2:30am so is perfect for nocturnal summer souls.
6. Go for a late-night stroll in King Abdullah Park
Unlike on the coast, the nights in Riyadh are noticeably cooler than the day, so even in the height of summer it is enjoyable to be outdoors. Riyadh obviously does not have a corniche, but its alternatives are its parks. King Abdullah Park is known for its epic fountains and there are also music and snack outlets that are open late.
