A spotlight on Japan's art island

A spotlight on Japan's art island

Naoshima is like no other place on Earth, and could be considered one of the world's most quirky art galleries
23 June 23
Yayoi Kusama's iconic yellow pumpkin sculpture
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Have you ever dreamt of spending a night surrounded by art?

How about spending one on an isolated island? Well, on the magical Naoshima, you’re in luck on both fronts. Tucked away in the Seto Inland Sea, my experience on this quirky isle felt like the ultimate art pilgrimage.

Getting to Naoshima takes three and a half hours from Kyoto and requires a combination of train, bus, and ferry. It takes roughly 35 minutes to walk across the 14.22 sq km island, so it’s small, as well as astonishing.

Teshima Art Museum © Denis Kovalev

The minute I stepped off the ferry, I was greeted by Japanese contemporary artist Yayoi Kusama’s iconic work, with buses and boats decorated with her trademark dots. It was an immediate reminder that I was entering another world – an immense and immersive outdoor art gallery.

Naoshima isn't just about art; it's a place where nature and creativity coexist. It’s where you can hike while being emotionally moved by some of the best art in the world. There are hidden sculptures scattered across the landscape and there is enough art to fill days, but most visitors opt for a day trip.

Benesse House Museum in Naoshima Town, Kagawa Prefecture

Highlights

  • Chichu Art Museum, one of several museums on the island designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando, aka "the king of concrete,” is a masterpiece in itself.
  • The Walter De Maria room at Chichu is a striking temple-like space with golden pillars mounted on the walls and steps leading up to a giant granite sphere. The silence in the space offers a profound connection to the artist's vision.
  • Benesse House Museum, a name that interjects "wellbeing" in Italian, is probably the most notable site on the island. You can book a stay at the museum for a fully immersive experience, making it a standout destination in the art world.
  • The museum houses pieces by Andy Warhol and David Hockney, and includes the iconic yellow pumpkin by Kusama.
  • The east of the island is home to the Art House Project, an initiative which transformed abandoned houses into unexpected and thought-provoking art installations that blend into the island's traditional architecture. This spot offers a clear shift in mood from the other art institutions on the island. It gives treasure hunt vibes – all narrow streets and unassuming houses.
James Turrell’s light installation

Memorable Works

James Turrell’s pieces – Minamidera at the Art House Project and Open Sky at Chichu Art Museum – were the most notable for me. His light installations play on the viewer’s perception by using the contrast of light and darkness to manipulate perceptions of depth and colour.